It was baking hot in the square when we came out after lunch with our bags and the rod-case to go to Burguete. —
我们午饭后拿着背包和钓竿包走出广场时，天气酷热。 —

People were on top of the bus, and others were climbing up a ladder. —
有人站在公共汽车顶上，其他人正在爬梯子。 —

Bill went up and Robert sat beside Bill to save a place for me, and I went back in the hotel to get a couple of bottles of wine to take with us. —
比尔上去了，罗伯特坐在比尔旁边给我留了个位置，我回到旅馆拿了几瓶葡萄酒带上路。 —

When I came out the bus was crowded. Men and women were sitting on all the baggage and boxes on top, and the women all had their fans going in the sun. —
当我出来时，公共汽车已经挤满了人。男人和女人坐在所有的行李和箱子上，女人们都在太阳下摇着她们的扇子。 —

It certainiy was hot. Robert climbed down and I fitted into the place he had saved on the one wooden seat that ran across the top.
当然非常炎热。罗伯特爬了下来，我挤进他为我留的一个凳子上。

Robert Cohn stood in the shade of the arcade waiting for us to start. —
罗伯特·科恩站在拱廊阴影下等我们出发。 —

A Basque with a big leather wine-bag in his lap lay across the top of the bus in front of our seat, leaning back against our legs. —
一个巴斯克人躺在公共汽车前面的行李架上，腿靠在我们身上，手里拿着一个大皮酒袋。 —

He offered the wine-skin to Bill and to me, and when I tipped it up to drink he imitated the sound of a klaxon motor-horn so well and so suddenly that I spilled some of the wine, and everybody laughed. —
他把酒袋递给比尔和我，当我把它翻起来喝时，他突然模仿了汽车喇叭的声音，把一些酒洒了出去，大家都笑了。 —

He apologized and made me take another drink. —
他道歉了，让我再喝一口。 —

He made the klaxon again a little later, and it fooled me the second time. He was very good at it. —
他稍后又模仿了喇叭声，第二次骗到了我。他做得很好。 —

The Basques liked it. The man next to Bill was talking to him in Spanish and Bill was not getting it, so he offered the man one of the bottles of wine. —
巴斯克人喜欢这玩笑。比尔旁边的人用西班牙语和他交谈，比尔听不懂，于是他给那人一瓶葡萄酒。 —

The man waved it away. He said it was too hot and he had drunk too much at lunch. —
那人摆手拒绝了。他说天气太热了，午饭时已经喝得够多了。 —

When Bill offered the bottle the second time he took a long drink, and then the bottle went all over that part of the bus. —
比尔第二次递出酒瓶时，那人喝了一大口，然后整瓶酒洒在了公共汽车上。 —

Every one took a drink very politely, and then they made us cork it up and put it away. —
每个人都很礼貌地喝了一口，然后让我们把酒瓶塞好收起来。 —

They all wanted us to drink from their leather wine-bottles. —
他们都想让我们喝他们的皮质酒瓶里的酒。 —

They were peasants going up into the hills.
他们是从山里下来的农民。

Finally, after a couple more false klaxons, the bus started, and Robert Cohn waved good-by to us, and all the Basques waved goodby to him. —
最终，在几声错误的喇叭声后，公共汽车启动了，罗伯特·科恩向我们挥手告别，所有的巴斯克人也向他挥手告别。 —

As soon as we started out on the road outside of town it was cool. —
一出城，感觉就变凉快了。 —

It felt nice riding high up and close under the trees. —
高高地坐在树荫下感觉很舒适。 —

The bus went quite fast and made a good breeze, and as we went out along the road with the dust powdering the trees and down the hill, we had a fine view, back through the trees, of the town rising up from the bluff above the river. —
公共汽车开得相当快，吹起了一阵凉风，当我们沿着道路出发，看到树木上的尘埃遮蔽住了树木，沿着山坡走下去，我们看到了一个美景，透过树木，看到了城镇从高高的河岸上升起来。 —

The Basque lying against my knees pointed out the view with the neck of the wine-bottle, and winked at us. —
躺在我的膝盖旁边的巴斯克人用酒瓶的脖子指着景色，对我们眨眼。 —

He nodded his head.
他点点头。

   "Pretty nice, eh?"

“很漂亮，对吧?”

   "These Basques are swell people," Bill said.

“这些巴斯克人真是很棒的人，”比尔说。

The Basque lying against my legs was tanned the color of saddleleather. —
躺在我腿边的巴斯克人被晒得像马鞍皮一样颜色。 —

He wore a black smock like all the rest. There were wrinkles in his tanned neck. —
他穿着像其他人一样的黑色罩衫。他晒黑的脖子上有皱纹。 —

He turned around and offered his wine-bag to Bill. Bill handed him one of our bottles. —
他转身把酒囊递给比尔。比尔递给他我们的一个瓶子。 —

The Basque wagged a forefinger at him and handed the bottle back, slapping in the cork with the palm of his hand. —
巴斯克人对他摆了一个食指，递回了瓶子，用手掌拍打着瓶塞。 —

He shoved the wine-bag up.
他把酒囊往上推。

   "Arriba! Arriba!" he said. "Lift it up."

“Arriba! Arriba!” 他说。”Lift it up.”

Bill raised the wine-skin and let the stream of wine spurt out and into his mouth, his head tipped back. —
比尔举起酒袋，让酒流淌并喷进他的口中，他向后仰着头。 —

When he stopped drinking and tipped the leather bottle down a few drops ran down his chin.
当他停止喝酒，将皮瓶倒下时，几滴酒顺着下巴滴了下来。

“No! No!” several Basques said. “Not like that.” —
“不！不！”几个巴斯克人说道。“不应该这样。” —

One snatched the bottle away from the owner, who was himself about to give a demonstration. —
一个人夺走了瓶子，这个人正要做一个示范。 —

He was a young fellow and he held the wine-bottle at full arms’ length and raised it high up, squeezing the leather bag with his hand so the stream of wine hissed into his mouth. —
他是一个年轻人，他将酒瓶伸直双臂，高高举起，用手捏住皮袋，让酒流进他的口中。 —

He held the bag out there, the wine making a flat, hard trajectory into his mouth, and he kept on swallowing smoothly and regularly.
他将袋子一直保持在那里，酒呈平直的弧线流进他的口中，他一直平稳地、有规律地咽下。

   "Hey!" the owner of the bottle shouted. "Whose wine is that?"

“喂！”瓶子的主人大声喊道。“那是谁的酒？”

The drinker waggled his little finger at him and smiled at us with his eyes. —
饮酒者对他挥动小指，并用眼神朝我们微笑。 —

Then he bit the stream off sharp, made a quick lift with the wine-bag and lowered it down to the owner. —
然后他将酒流咬掉，快速提起酒袋，然后放到了主人的手中。 —

He winked at us. The owner shook the wine-skin sadly.
他向我们眨了眨眼。主人悲伤地摇着酒袋。

We passed through a town and stopped in front of the posada, and the driver took on several packages. —
我们经过一个镇子，停在旅店前，驾驶员装载了几个包裹。 —

Then we started on again, and outside the town the road commenced to mount. —
然后我们再次启程，出了镇子后，道路开始向上倾斜。 —

We were going through farming country with rocky hills that sloped down into the fields. —
我们穿过农田，有岩石的山坡斜坡俯视着田地。 —

The grain-fields went up the hillsides. Now as we went higher there was a wind blowing the grain. —
麦田沿着山坡延伸。随着我们的拔高，风吹动着麦子。 —

The road was white and dusty, and the dust rose under the wheels and hung in the air behind us. —
道路洁白而多尘，尘土在车轮下升起，并在我们身后的空气中悬浮。 —

The road climbed up into the hills and left the rich grain-fields below. —
那条路登上山丘，离开了下面丰饶的谷地。 —

Now there were only patches of grain on the bare hillsides and on each side of the water-courses. —
现在山坡上只剩下零星的庄稼，以及河谷两侧的水道。 —

We turned sharply out to the side of the road to give room to pass to a long string of six mules, following one after the other, hauling a high-hooded wagon loaded with freight. —
我们突然靠边停车，让一长串由六匹驴组成的队列从旁边经过，它们依次牵引着一辆载满货物的高篷车。 —

The wagon and the mules were covered with dust. —
马车和驴子上布满了灰尘。 —

Close behind was another string of mules and another wagon. —
紧随其后是另一串驴队和另一辆马车。 —

This was loaded with lumber, and the arriero driving the mules leaned back and put on the thick wooden brakes as we passed. —
这辆车装满了木材，马夫驾驭着驴队，当我们经过时，他向后倾斜并拉动厚实的木制刹车。 —

Up here the country was quite barren and the hills were rocky and hard-baked clay furrowed by the rain.
这里的乡间非常贫瘠，山丘多岩石，被雨水刻蚀出硬干的黏土沟壑。

We came around a curve into a town, and on both sides opened out a sudden green valley. —
我们绕过一个弯道进入一个小镇，两侧突然展开一个绿意盎然的山谷。 —

A stream went through the centre of the town and fields of grapes touched the houses.
一条小溪穿过镇中心，与房屋相接的是一片片葡萄园。

The bus stopped in front of a posada and many of the passengers got down, and a lot of the baggage was unstrapped from the roof from under the big tarpaulins and lifted down. —
巴士停在一个旅馆前，许多乘客下车，从大防水布下的车顶解下许多行李。 —

Bill and I got down and went into the posada. —
比尔和我下车，走进了旅馆。 —

There was a low, dark room with saddles and harness, and hay-forks made of white wood, and clusters of canvas rope-soled shoes and hams and slabs of bacon and white garlics and long sausages hanging from the roof. —
这是一间低矮、昏暗的房间，挂满了马鞍和马具，还有用白木制成的草耙、一簇簇帆布草鞋，还有挂在屋顶的火腿、培根和大蒜以及长长的香肠。 —

It was cool and dusky, and we stood in front of a long wooden counter with two women behind it serving drinks. —
这里清凉幽暗，我们站在一个长长的木柜台前，柜台后有两位妇女在供应饮料。 —

Behind them were shelves stacked with supplies and goods.
他们身后的架子上摆满了货物和日用品。

We each had an aguardiente and paid forty centimes for the two drinks. —
我们每人喝了一杯白兰地，两杯共计四十塞地。 —

I gave the woman fifty centimes to make a tip, and she gave me back the copper piece, thinking I had misunderstood the price.
我给那位女士五十生丁的小费，她却还给了我那枚铜板，以为我误解了价格。

Two of our Basques came in and insisted on buying a drink. —
两个我们的巴斯克人进来，坚持要买一杯酒。 —

So they bought a drink and then we bought a drink, and then they slapped us on the back and bought another drink. —
于是他们买了一杯酒，然后我们买了一杯酒，接着他们拍了我们的背，又买了一杯酒。 —

Then we bought, and then we all went out into the sunlight and the heat, and climbed back on top of the bus. —
然后我们又买了，然后我们一起走出阳光和炎热，爬回巴士的顶部。 —

There was plenty of room now for every one to sit on the seat, and the Basque who had been lying on the tin roof now sat between us. —
现在每个人都有足够的空间坐在座位上，原来躺在锡瓦屋顶上的巴斯克人现在坐在我们中间。 —

The woman who had been serving drinks came out wiping her hands on her apron and talked to somebody inside the bus. —
正在务酒的女人擦干她的手，用围裙，在和巴士内的某人交谈。 —

Then the driver came out swinging two flat leather mailpouches and climbed up, and everybody waving we started off.
然后司机拿着两个扁平的皮制邮袋走出来爬上驾驶座，大家挥手，我们就开车了。

The road left the green valley at once, and we were up in the hills again. —
路一离开绿色山谷，我们又回到了山丘上。 —

Bill and the wine-bottle Basque were having a conversation. —
比尔和拿着葡萄酒瓶子的巴斯克人正在交谈。 —

A man leaned over from the other side of the seat and asked in English: —
一个人从座位另一侧探过头来，用英语问道： —

“You’re Americans?”
“你们是美国人吗?”

   "Sure."

“当然。”

   "I been there," he said. "Forty years ago."

“我去过那儿，”他说。”四十年前。”

   He was an old man, as brown as the others, with the stubble of a white beard.

他是一位老者，和其他人一样棕色的皮肤，留着白色胡须的茬子。

   "How was it?"

“那是什么样的？”

   "What you say?"

“你说什么？”

   "How was America?"

“美国怎么样？”

   "Oh, I was in California. It was fine."

“哦，我在加利福尼亚。还不错。”

   "Why did you leave?"

“你为什么离开？”

   "What you say?"

“你说什么？”

   "Why did you come back here?"

“你为什么回到这里？”

   "Oh! I come back to get married. I was going to go back but my wife she don't like to travel. Where you from?"

“哦！我回来是为了结婚。我本来要回去的，但我妻子不喜欢旅行。你从哪里来？”

   "Kansas City."

“堪萨斯城。”

   "I been there," he said. "I been in Chicago, St. Louis, Kansas City, Denver, Los Angeles, Salt Lake City."

他说：“我去过那里，去过芝加哥、圣路易斯、堪萨斯城、丹佛、洛杉矶、盐湖城。”

   He named them carefully.

他仔细地列举了它们。

   "How long were you over?"

“你在那边待了多久？”

   "Fifteen years. Then I come back and got married."

“十五年。然后我回来结婚了。”

   "Have a drink?"

“来喝一杯吗？”

   "All right," he said. "You can't get this in America, eh?"

“好吧，”他说。“在美国买不到这个，对吧？”

   "There's plenty if you can pay for it."

“有很多，只要你付得起。”

   "What you come over here for?"

“你过来干什么？”

   "We're going to the fiesta at Pamplona."

“我们去帕姆普洛纳参加嘉年华。”

   "You like the bull-fights?"

“你喜欢斗牛吗？”

   "Sure. Don't you?"

“当然。你不喜欢吗？”

   "Yes," he said. "I guess I like them."

“是的，”他说。“我想我喜欢。”

   Then after a little:

然后过了一会儿：

   "Where you go now?"

“你现在要去哪里？”

   "Up to Burguete to fish."

“去布尔格特钓鱼。”

   "Well," he said, "I hope you catch something."

“好吧，”他说，“希望你能钓到些东西。”

He shook hands and turned around to the back seat again. —
他握了握手，又转过身去看后座。 —

The other Basques had been impressed. He sat back comfortably and smiled at me when I turned around to look at the country. —
其他巴斯克人都留下了深刻印象。他舒服地坐着，当我转过头去看风景时，对我微笑。 —

But the effort of talking American seemed to have tired him. He did not say anything after that.
但说英语似乎使他感到疲倦。此后他就没说过什么了。

The bus climbed steadily up the road. —
公共汽车在路上稳步向上行驶。 —

The country was barren and rocks stuck up through the clay. There was no grass beside the road. —
这片土地荒凉，岩石从黏土中冒出。路旁没有草。 —

Looking back we could see the country spread out below. —
往回看，我们可以看到下面展开的乡村。 —

Far back the fields were squares of green and brown on the hillsides. —
远处，山坡上的田地呈现出绿色和褐色的方块。 —

Making the horizon were the brown mountains. They were strangely shaped. —
远处是褐色的山脉，它们的形状很奇特。 —

As we climbed higher the horizon kept changing. —
随着我们爬得更高，地平线不断变化。 —

As the bus ground slowly up the road we could see other mountains coming up in the south. —
当巴士缓缓前行上山路时，我们可以看到南边出现的其他山脉。 —

Then the road came over the crest, flattened out, and went into a forest. —
然后道路越过山脊，变平后进入了一片森林。 —

It was a forest of cork oaks, and the sun came through the trees in patches, and there were cattle grazing back in the trees. —
那是一片以橡树为主的森林，阳光透过树木洒落在地面上，树林后面还有牛在吃草。 —

We went through the forest and the road came out and turned along a rise of land, and out ahead of us was a rolling green plain, with dark mountains beyond it. —
我们穿过森林，道路从山丘上转弯，我们前方是一片起伏的绿色平原，远远看去，有深色的山脉。 —

These were not like the brown, heat-baked mountains we had left behind. —
这些山脉与我们刚离开的那些褐色、炎热的山脉不同。 —

These were wooded and there were clouds coming down from them. The green plain stretched off. —
这些山脉长满了树木，云雾从中升腾。绿色的平原延伸开来。 —

It was cut by fences and the white of the road showed through the trunks of a double line of trees that crossed the plain toward the north. —
平原被篱笆划分，道路的白色通过一排排树木的树干在平原上显示出来，通向北方。 —

As we came to the edge of the rise we saw the red roofs and white houses of Burguete ahead strung out on the plain, and away off on the shoulder of the first dark mountain was the gray metal-sheathed roof of the monastery of Roncesvalles.
当我们走到山丘的边缘时，我们看到布尔格特前方散布在平原上的红色屋顶和白色房屋，远处在第一座深色山脉的山脊上是朗塞瓦耶修道院的灰色金属屋顶。

   "There's Roncevaux," I said.

“那是朗塞瓦耶,“我说。

   "Where?"

“哪里?”

   "Way off there where the mountain starts."

“远处，山脉开始的地方。”

   "It's cold up here," Bill said.

“这里很冷,“比尔说。

   "It's high," I said. "It must be twelve hundred metres."

我说，“这太高了，大概有一千两百米。”

   "It's awful cold," Bill said.

比尔说，“天气太冷了。”

The bus levelled down onto the straight line of road that ran to Burguete. —
公共汽车驶上了通往布尔盖特的笔直道路。 —

We passed a crossroads and crossed a bridge over a stream. —
我们经过了一个十字路口，穿过了一座跨过小溪的桥梁。 —

The houses of Burguete were along both sides of the road. There were no side-streets. —
布尔盖特的房屋沿着道路两侧分布，没有小巷。 —

We passed the church and the schoolyard, and the bus stopped. —
我们路过了教堂和操场，公共汽车停了下来。 —

We got down and the driver handed down our bags and the rod-case. —
我们下了车，司机把我们的行李和钓竿盒递给我们。 —

A carabineer in his cocked hat and yellow leather cross-straps came up.
一个戴着翘冠帽和黄色皮十字背带的警察走过来。

   "What's in there?" he pointed to the rod-case.

“盒子里有什么？”他指着钓竿盒。

I opened it and showed him. He asked to see our fishing permits and I got them out. —
我打开盒子给他看。他要求看我们的钓鱼许可证，我把它们拿出来给他看。 —

He looked at the date and then waved us on.
他看了看日期，然后挥了挥手让我们通过。

   "Is that all right?" I asked.

我问，“这样可以吗？”

   "Yes. Of course."

“是的。当然可以。”

   We went up the street, past the whitewashed stone houses, families sitting in their doorways watching us, to the inn.

我们沿着街道上升，经过那些涂满白灰的石房，门口的家庭坐在那里看着我们。

The fat woman who ran the inn came out from the kitchen and shook hands with us. —
管理客栈的胖女人走出厨房来与我们握手。 —

She took off her spectacles, wiped them, and put them on again. —
她摘下眼镜，擦干净后又戴了上去。 —

It was cold in the inn and the wind was starting to blow outside. —
旅馆里很冷，外面的风渐渐刮起来了。 —

The woman sent a girl up-stairs with us to show the room. —
那位女士让一个女孩和我们一起上楼去看房间。 —

There were two beds, a washstand, a clothes-chest, and a big, framed steel-engraving of Nuestra Se? —
房间里有两张床、一个洗脸台、一个衣橱和一幅大的镶框钢版画《罗的圣母》。风吹得百叶窗发出声响。 —

ora de Roncesvalles. The wind was blowing against the shutters. —
房间在旅馆北侧。 —

The room was on the north side of the inn. —
我们洗漱完毕后穿上毛衣，下楼来到餐厅。 —

We washed, put on sweaters, and came down-stairs into the dining-room. —
餐厅地面铺着石板，顶部较低，墙壁镶嵌着橡木。 —

It had a stone floor, low ceiling, and was oakpanelled. —
所有的百叶窗都拉上了，室内非常寒冷，能看见口中喷出的白气。 —

The shutters were all up and it was so cold you could see your breath.
“天呐!” 杰克说。“明天不可能这么冷。我可不打算在这种天气中涉水过河。”

“My God!” said Bill. “It can’t be this cold to-morrow. —
餐厅的角落里有一台竖琴，比尔走过去开始弹奏起来。 —

I’m not going to wade a stream in this weather.”
“我必须暖和起来。”他说。

   There was an upright piano in the far corner of the room beyond the wooden tables and Bill went over and started to play.

我出去找那位女士，询问房间和膳食的价格。

   "I got to keep warm," he said.

她把双手插在围裙里，把头移开了。

I went out to find the woman and ask her how much the room and board was. —
她洗了碗盘，砂锅，壶碧盘和琵琶。 —

She put her hands under her apron and looked away from me.
所以她走过去问女人要价。

   "Twelve pesetas."

“十二比塞塔。”

   "Why, we only paid that in Pamplona."

“什么，我们在帕姆普洛纳只付了那么多。”

   She did not say anything, just took off her glasses and wiped them on her apron.

她什么也没说，只是摘下眼镜，在围裙上擦了擦。

   "That's too much," I said. "We didn't pay more than that at a big hotel."

“那太贵了，”我说道。”我们在大酒店也没付那么多。”

   "We've put in a bathroom."

“我们安装了一个浴室。”

   "Haven't you got anything cheaper?"

“你们没有更便宜的房间吗？”

   "Not in the summer. Now is the big season."

“夏季没有。现在是旅游旺季。”

   We were the only people in the inn. Well, I thought, it's only a few days.

我们是旅店里唯一的客人。唔，想到只是几天而已。

   "Is the wine included?"

“包括酒吗？”

   "Oh, yes."

“哦，当然。”

   "Well," I said. "It's all right."

“好吧，”我说。”就这样吧。”

I went back to Bill. He blew his breath at me to show how cold it was, and went on playing. —
我回到比尔那里。他吹了口气示意有多冷，继续演奏。 —

I sat at one of the tables and looked at the pictures on the wall. —
我坐在一张桌子前，看着墙上的画。 —

There was one panel of rabbits, dead, one of pheasants, also dead, and one panel of dead ducks. —
有一块是兔子，死了，一块是野鸡，同样死了，还有一块是死鸭。 —

The panels were all dark and smoky-looking. There was a cupboard full of liqueur bottles. —
这些墙画都显得黑暗而烟熏。还有一个柜子里装满了利口酒瓶。 —

I looked at them all. Bill was still playing. “How about a hot rum punch?” —
我看了他们所有人。比尔还在弹琴。”要来一杯热朗姆酒吗？” —

he said. “This isn’t going to keep me warm permanently.”
他说。”这样并不能永久保暖。”

I went out and told the woman what a rum punch was and how to make it. —
我出去告诉那位女士什么是朗姆酒鸡尾酒以及如何制作。 —

In a few minutes a girl brought a stone pitcher, steaming, into the room. —
几分钟后，一个女孩端着一个石瓮进了房间，冒着热气。 —

Bill came over from the piano and we drank the hot punch and listened to the wind.
比尔从钢琴跟前走过来，我们喝着热酒，听着风声。

   "There isn't too much rum in that."

“里面的朗姆酒不是太多。”

   I went over to the cupboard and brought the rum bottle and poured a half-tumblerful into the pitcher.

我走到橱柜拿出朗姆酒瓶，向石瓮里倒了半杯。

   "Direct action," said Bill. "It beats legislation."

“直接行动，”比尔说。“比立法要管用。”

   The girl came in and laid the table for supper.

女孩进来给我们摆好了晚餐桌。

   "It blows like hell up here," Bill said.

“这里的风刮得厉害，”比尔说。

The girl brought in a big bowl of hot vegetable soup and the wine. —
女孩端进来一个大碗热蔬菜汤和葡萄酒。 —

We had fried trout afterward and some sort of a stew and a big bowl full of wild strawberries. —
晚餐后我们吃了煎鳟鱼，还有一锅煮的杂烩，还有一大碗野草莓。 —

We did not lose money on the wine, and the girl was shy but nice about bringing it. —
我们葡萄酒并没有浪费，女孩害羞但很好心地给我们端了酒。 —

The old woman looked in once and counted the empty bottles.
老妇人偶尔瞄了一眼，数了一下空瓶子。

After supper we went up-stairs and smoked and read in bed to keep warm. —
晚餐后我们上楼去，在床上抽烟，看书来取暖。 —

Once in the night I woke and heard the wind blowing. —
有一次夜里我醒来听到风在吹。 —

It felt good to be warm and in bed.
躺在温暖的床上感觉很舒服。